Making Space:Sensing Place

In October 2009, along with artist Thurle Wright, I was awarded a Making Space:Sensing Place Fellowship; part of the HAT: Here and There International Exchange Programme, managed by A Fine Line:Cultural Practice. The Fellowship includes residencies with Britto Arts in Dhaka, Bangladesh, with Arts Reverie in Ahmedabad, Gujarat, with The V&A Museum of Childhood, Bethnal Green, London and with The Harley Gallery, Nottinghamshire. Working and collaborating with artists and craftspeople from the UK, Bangladesh and India, responding to the collections and spaces we encounter and sharing these experiences through a touring exhibition and educational workshops.

This blog, which is still developing and being added to, is a record of my experiences during the MS:SP Fellowship. Steven Follen.
www.stevenfollen.com

Showing posts with label Temples. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Temples. Show all posts

Wednesday, 10 March 2010

Adalaj Step Well



Already visually exhausted we stopped enroute back to Ahmedabad.
As the evening light began to warm to a more yellow hue and the heat of the day mellowed, we arrived at the beatiful and intricate Adalaj Step Well.
The step well was built in 1498 under the direction of Ruda wife of the Vaghela chief Virasimha. The well has steps descending down five storeys to a central shaft with balconies looking over the well. The cool chambers and balconies suggest that as well as a place to bathe and collect water, the wells were a social place where people met and talked.


The rich hues of the sunlight on the warm sandstone above ground contrast with the grey light through the layers beneath.

The arches and openings created interesting views and compositions. Framing the structure of the building.

         
The lines of perspective defining the space and the geometry of the building was stunning.

    

It seemed that almost every surface is decorated with fine carving. The style appears very different to Modehra and Rani Ki, which we had seen earlier in the day. The geometric patterns and detailing appear more reminiscent of the Jama Masjid and the Mughal tombs in Ahmedabad as well as the carving and architecture of the Sarkej Rosawhere the islamic geometry is set alongside the figurative style of the Jain carvers.


   
As well as geometric patterns and scrolls motifs the carvings include panels showing the Navagrahas, along with sculptures of the seated King and scenes of birds and mythical animals.

  

The Well contains a number of shrines.

  

  


  

Rani Ki Vav




Step wells or 'Vav' are unique to the region, they are a form of subterranean architecture, an elaborate
means of obtaining water. Most consist of an series of steps going down to the water table they include platforms, pavilions and stone framed supports along the way.
The Rani Ki Vav or Queens step well is said to have been constructed for Udayamati, Queen to Raja Bhimdeva 1 (1022-1063) in the 11th Century. Bhimdeva 1 was the son of Mula Raja the founder of the Solanki Dynasty.




This step well is a huge structure, cut into the ground some 20m wide 27m deep and 64m long, it includes a draw well and tank and has a multi storeyed pavilion supported on pillars. Their elaborate design makes them social and resting places.




Through time the Vav had became filled with soil and damaged by flooding and neglect, little of the structure and intricate carving was visible above ground and knowledge of the structure fell from living memory.

After National independence the Vav was placed in the custody of the Archeological Survey of India and was declared a protected monument of national importance.





In 1958 excavations began followed by the restoration of the building, returning stones and carvings that had collapsed into the well back to their original positions.




The carvings represent gods and demigods from Hindu Mythology and include Mahisasuramardini, Parvati, Vishnu, Lakshiminarayana, Bhairava, Ganesha, Surya, Kubera, Ashtadikpalas, there are also Asparas, Nagakanyas and Yoginis.






 The carvings are increadibly well preserved considering their age.






The Building also includes examples of geometric pattern aswell as the figurative work. 



"The symbolic associations of ablution and journeying to the womb transform the mundane act of fetching water into a spiritual experience."

The Sun Temple at Modhera

The Sun Temple complex at Modhera consists of three elements. An open Mandapa, with some 52 intricately carved pillars, sits above a stepped water tank. Behind the Mandapa is the Nritva Mandapa (Dancing Hall) and the Garbagriha, an inner unlit chamber.  The temple complex is dedicated to the Hindu Sun God Surya and is aligned east - west so that light penetrates the Garbagriha on the spring and autumn equinox.

The tank was used to perform ceremonial ablutions before worship and is surrounded by many smaller shrines, each dedicated to a god includng Shiva, Vishnu and Ganesh.

 Shrines.



It was built in AD 1026 under the direction of Raja Bhimdev of the Solanki dynasty but was plundered, defaced and damaged during the regions many wars with invaders. Despite its abuse, the detail of the architectural carving is stunning, even today nearly 1000 years later. The temple is now under the supervision of the Archeological Survey of India.


  The Mandapa with the Garbagriha behind.

 The Mandapa and its many columns.



The carvings depict the Sun God (in twelve states), Dikpalas and scenes from the Hindu epics.





Looking out towards the tank.
 Looking in towards the Garbagriha

The Garbagriha.

Whilst at the temple we met other visitors, some of the women were Rabari and wore traditional tattoos which they regard as jewellery. The designs are both decorative and indicate an individuals lineage and tribal grouping. The tattoos are often applied over a series of sessions when a child reaches puberty.