Rani Ki Vav

Step wells or 'Vav' are unique to the region, they are a form of subterranean architecture, an elaborate
means of obtaining water. Most consist of an series of steps going down to the water table they include platforms, pavilions and stone framed supports along the way.
The Rani Ki Vav or Queens step well is said to have been constructed for Udayamati, Queen to Raja Bhimdeva 1 (1022-1063) in the 11th Century. Bhimdeva 1 was the son of Mula Raja the founder of the Solanki Dynasty.

This step well is a huge structure, cut into the ground some 20m wide 27m deep and 64m long, it includes a draw well and tank and has a multi storeyed pavilion supported on pillars. Their elaborate design makes them social and resting places.

Through time the Vav had became filled with soil and damaged by flooding and neglect, little of the structure and intricate carving was visible above ground and knowledge of the structure fell from living memory.

After National independence the Vav was placed in the custody of the Archeological Survey of India and was declared a protected monument of national importance.

In 1958 excavations began followed by the restoration of the building, returning stones and carvings that had collapsed into the well back to their original positions.

The carvings represent gods and demigods from Hindu Mythology and include Mahisasuramardini, Parvati, Vishnu, Lakshiminarayana, Bhairava, Ganesha, Surya, Kubera, Ashtadikpalas, there are also Asparas, Nagakanyas and Yoginis.

 The carvings are increadibly well preserved considering their age.

The Building also includes examples of geometric pattern aswell as the figurative work. 

"The symbolic associations of ablution and journeying to the womb transform the mundane act of fetching water into a spiritual experience."

The Sun Temple at Modhera

The Sun Temple complex at Modhera consists of three elements. An open Mandapa, with some 52 intricately carved pillars, sits above a stepped water tank. Behind the Mandapa is the Nritva Mandapa (Dancing Hall) and the Garbagriha, an inner unlit chamber.  The temple complex is dedicated to the Hindu Sun God Surya and is aligned east - west so that light penetrates the Garbagriha on the spring and autumn equinox.

The tank was used to perform ceremonial ablutions before worship and is surrounded by many smaller shrines, each dedicated to a god includng Shiva, Vishnu and Ganesh.

 Shrines.

It was built in AD 1026 under the direction of Raja Bhimdev of the Solanki dynasty but was plundered, defaced and damaged during the regions many wars with invaders. Despite its abuse, the detail of the architectural carving is stunning, even today nearly 1000 years later. The temple is now under the supervision of the Archeological Survey of India.

  The Mandapa with the Garbagriha behind.

 The Mandapa and its many columns.

The carvings depict the Sun God (in twelve states), Dikpalas and scenes from the Hindu epics.

Looking out towards the tank.

 Looking in towards the Garbagriha

The Garbagriha.

Whilst at the temple we met other visitors, some of the women were Rabari and wore traditional tattoos which they regard as jewellery. The designs are both decorative and indicate an individuals lineage and tribal grouping. The tattoos are often applied over a series of sessions when a child reaches puberty.

Sidi Saiyyed Mosque

Today was a day of wandering and exploring the city. Taking in the architecture, Looking for craft workshops and observing the way people live and work.

I had seen images of a small mosque, with wonderfully intricate carving, The Sidi Saiyyed Mosque. I went off t explore and try to find it. 

The Mosque was built  in the last year of the Sultanate of Gujarat  shortly before the invasion of the Mughals. It was built by Sidi Saeed (Saiyyed) an Abyssinian in the service of Rumi Khan, The second son of Khuda Vand Khan Khwaja Safar Salmani, The governor of Surat during the tenth Gujurat Sultan Mahmud Shah III ( 1537-1553).

Sidi Saeed was apparently a learned man with a vast library, later in his life he joined the personal retinue of Bilal Jha Jhar Khan a famous general in the army of the last Sultan of Gujurat. Sidi Saeed died in 1576 and his tomb lies near the north wall of the mosque compound. 

The mosque is famous for its intricate lattice work windows, known as Jali's, which depict intertwined plant, foliage and palm tree imagery, as well as squares of geometric patterns. like much of the architecture in the region the building combines the skills of Jain carvers with both Hindu and Islamic imagery.

When walking around the city your eye is continually drawn upward to take in the multilayers of the buildings which sit right up to the cramped roadways.

Your eye is drawn to the incredible detail of carving, much like the mosques, but this time in wood.
intricate details and panels cover the facades.

Ornate buttresses. 

The detail of the buildings reflect the wealth and status of the merchants and owners who lived here when the buildings were constructed.